Watts Towers. Photo copyright 2016 by Anna Boudinot.
I received a wonderful compliment the other day: "You always know the best stuff to do in LA."
To accept this compliment I must make a confession: I'm one of those Angelenos who only goes to the beach once a year. Don't get me wrong -- I like the beach -- but there are just so many other things to do in this beautiful place. Los Angeles doesn't get nearly the amount of credit it deserves for being a city full of art, culture, and history. Because one of my biggest joys is finding the city's hidden treasures and sharing them with others, I'd like to use this blog as an outlet for that. I'll also be sharing some excursions that are only a couple hours' drive away from Los Angeles, because one of the best parts of living here is being in proximity to so many other fun things to do.
Wall detail, Watts Towers. Photo copyright 2016 by Anna Boudinot
First up, a place I love taking out-of-town visitors, because it's such an incredible sight to see and because it's not a place on many tourists' radar: The Watts Towers.
The Watts Towers were constructed by one man, Simon "Sam" Rodia, between 1921 and 1945. An Italian immigrant and a tile mason by trade, Rodia settled in the Watts neighborhood in 1920 following his divorce and the death of his daughter. He left two sons behind, from whom he apparently remained estranged for the rest of his life. Other accounts indicate that Rodia was an alcoholic who was able to combat the urge to drink by creating art. And create art he did. He built the towers, which he called Nuestro Pueblo, literally in his back yard.
Mailbox and the entrance of the Watts Towers. Photo copyright 2016 by Anna Boudinot
Though today Watts is predominantly an African American neighborhood, in the 1920s it was a mixed bag of immigrants from all over the world. Rodia was well known in the neighborhood due to his relentless work on the towers and his eccentric behavior such as blasting classical music in the wee hours of the morning. He built the towers by hand out of steel rebar that he bent into shape by wedging it underneath the nearby railroad tracks. He coated it with a special mixture of concrete and covered it with a breathtaking mosaic of tile, glass, seashells, and other discarded objects he found in the neighborhood. Neighborhood kids including legendary jazz artist Charles Mingus would bring scraps of broken pottery to Rodia for use in the project.
The floor of the Watts Towers. Photo copyright 2016 by Anna Boudinot
Rodia left Los Angeles after the towers were completed, leaving the property in a friend's care. After Rodia's death the City of Los Angeles ordered that the towers be destroyed, and gained traction on that plan when it was discovered that Rodia had never obtained a permit to build such structures. But the towers were already famous and recognized as an amazing piece of folk art, and a committee was quickly formed to fight the city's wishes. Because the city's primary argument was that the towers weren't structurally sound, the committee orchestrated a test in 1959 in which they proved how strong the towers were by trying to pull one of them down. With the help of an aerospace engineer, they constructed a system by which a series of cables attached to hydraulic cylinder and to a truck applied a 10,000-pound pull on the tower. The tower stood firm, proving that it could withstand 80 MPH winds and earthquakes to boot.
Seashells adorn the Watts Towers. Photo copyright 2016 by Anna Boudinot.
In 1965, Watts became the site of the famous rebellion that was sparked by anger over police brutality. Remarkably, though much of the neighborhood was destroyed by arson and other damage, no one laid a finger on the Watts Towers. The structures have become a powerful symbol of the vibrancy and resilience of the neighborhood and are today a National Historic Landmark and a California State Historic Park. LACMA is presently working to conserve the towers, and the Watts Towers Arts Center on site serves as an educational and cultural hub.
No matter how much I tell you about the Watts Towers' history or no matter how many photographs you might pore over, know that mere words and pictures cannot do it justice. This is a sight you're going to have to see with your own eyes in order to fully understand how unique and wonderful it is. Luckily it is easy to get to Watts -- it's off the 105 freeway and accessible via the Metro Blue Line -- and the guided tour is only $7 (cash only). These tours are only offered Thursdays through Sundays, and I highly recommend making your visit on one of those days since you cannot get up close to the towers without the presence of a docent.
The Watts Towers are a powerful example of the limitless creativity of one individual, and an equally powerful example of the great artistic history of the city of Los Angeles.
For more outdoor art in Los Angeles, visit the Great Wall of Los Angeles, the Berlin Wall and Angels Point.