Los Angeles’ restaurant culture dates back over 100 years, with a variety of cuisines rivaling—dare I say it?—New York City. From tiki bars to Jewish delicatessens, there’s a classic Los Angeles restaurant to delight just about everyone. I’ve included additional sites of interest with each listing if you want to explore the neighborhood after your meal.
Canter’s Delicatessen. Photo copyright 2019 by Anna Boudinot
Fairfax
Canter’s is one of Los Angeles’ most famous historic restaurants, and it’s not at all overrated. Surprisingly, it first opened in Jersey City, New Jersey, in 1924 by the Canter brothers. They moved it to Boyle Heights, Los Angeles, in 1931. Boyle Heights was then a Jewish neighborhood and the perfect location for the Canter family’s Jewish-style delicatessen. After WWII, the Jewish population headed to the Fairfax District, and Canter’s went with them. The 24-hour restaurant is known for deli classics like pastrami and corned beef, each sandwich served with signature house-made pickles. The restaurant is divided into three separate areas: the bakery filled with cases of fragrant challah bread, bagels, strudels, and rugelach, the main dining room with its trippy, faux, stained glass ceiling, and the Kibitz Room. The Kibitz Room is a small bar with nightly live music and is unusual not only because it’s attached to a Jewish deli but because it’s hosted many famous musicians. In a “small world” twist only Los Angeles could produce, the current co-owner of Canter’s, Marc Canter, grew up with Slash from Guns ‘N’ Roses.
Yes, that’s a stuffed monkey in a kayak hanging from the ceiling at Damon’s. Photo copyright 2019 by Anna Boudinot
Make a date out of it: The nearby New Beverly Cinema, owned by Quentin Tarantino, screens classic and grindhouse films on 16- and 35mm.
Glendale
On a nondescript stretch of Brand Boulevard in Glendale, incognito amidst a phone repair shop, a nail, salon, and a Panera, is Damon’s Steak House. In operation since 1937, the tiki-themed Damon’s was built by a man who owned a chain of candy stores and wanted to do something different. Sit down amongst palm trees, tropical fish, and Polynesian-inspired murals, and peruse the meat-heavy menu with staples like prime rib and beef brisket. Meals are served with a bizarre yet delicious house salad made up of celery, iceberg lettuce, and pickled beets tossed in French dressing. Be sure to order a Mai Tai or an alcoholic Dole Whip to complete the tiki experience.
Make a date out of it: Enjoy a lovely afternoon at Brand Library and Art Center before heading to Damon’s for happy hour.
West LA
Just the basics at Apple Pan: steak burger, fries, and a Coke. Photo copyright 2019 by Anna Boudinot
The Apple Pan is as simple as it gets: cash only, everyone sits at a counter, and you order a hamburger and apple pie. It’s been open since 1947 and is apparently the inspiration for the Johnny Rockets restaurant chain. The food is delicious and it’s a great place to people-watch, especially the old-timers who serve the food.
Make a date out of it: The Landmark across the street plays independent and arthouse films. Some of the theaters offer luxe seating options with sofas and loveseats instead of traditional movie theater seats.
Hollywood
Locals avoid Hollywood because it is so touristy and “scene”-y, but if you only visit one restaurant on this list, visit Musso and Frank. Make reservations, or wait for a spot at the beautiful mahogany bar. Gaze at the vintage murals and peruse the menu of classic dishes that haven’t changed much since the place opened in 1919. No matter how much of a nobody you are, you can get a taste of greatness as you sip a martini in the same spot as countless movie stars before you.
Make a date out of it: The Hollywood Walk of Fame and Grauman's Chinese Theater are actually really cool, no matter how jaded you are about LA. The Frolic Room is a great dive bar in the area.
For more historic LA restaurants, check out part I and part III of this series.